You can’t interest the Rhône in the Loire, or Touraine in Anjou, or even, I dare say, Sancerre in Pouilly. Give one the other to drink, and I guarantee the first remark to come will begin with ‘Quand même ...’ – which signifies, ‘Making all allowances I can for an inherently inferior pedigree, and not understanding in the least what you are trying to achieve, I will do my best to enjoy what you have kindly offered me.’
