Real priorities are more demanding. The housewife asks ‘Is that fair value for the same price as a chicken?’ If you are a shopper who hunts down the best and freshest chicken in the market you will have the same feeling about the wine to go with it. You want real satisfaction, not a token. Curnonsky, the first French food journalist, formulated the basic requirement: food should taste of what it is. It is no different with wine.