In the west, and in particular in Galicia—the largest former Austro-Hungarian part of Ukraine, annexed by the USSR in 1939 and retaken again in 1944—Soviet memorials decay while more and more are built to honor the Ukrainian Insurgent Army, the UPA, of Stepan Bandera. Travel in the Carpathian region though, which was the tip of Czechoslovakia until amputated in 1939, and they vanish, because, as Vasyl Khoma, who runs a hotel in Rakhiv on the Romanian border and who had been its deputy mayor,
