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Kindle Notes & Highlights
by
Karen Bowman
Read between
March 23 - March 23, 2021
Needles themselves were extremely valuable, varying in worth from a yearling calf for a common needle to an ounce of silver for an embroidery needle.
There were no gender assigned medieval colours, no pink for feminine or blue for masculine. It was in fact the reverse. Blue was associated with the Virgin Mary and conveyed gentleness. It was considered a weak colour in comparison to pink as pink came from red and red was the embodiment of power, passion, wealth and blood. White stood for purity, but was not worn by brides – whatever their station, people were simply married in the very best clothing they owned.
they were universally recognised as Poulaines as in ‘souliers a la Poulaine’, otherwise shoes in the Polish fashion. The monstrosities lasted over 300 years, with the term Poulaine always referring to the long, pointed beak of the shoe only and not the shoe itself.
Blatantly phallic, young men tended to stuff wool and moss in the extensions to keep them erect and a popular vulgarity was to paint the extensions flesh-coloured. The Church were appalled at how a humble shoe could be elevated into something, which depending on a gentleman’s rank, could extended to almost 24in longer than the foot and glorify masculine sexuality in such an obvious way.
When it comes to the codpiece much has been said about it but almost nothing written. It was a fashion born out of necessity and in this period of history it was a simple covering to prevent a man’s genitals from being exposed when the medieval tunic rose from knee-high in 1340 to thigh-high by the 1360s. It may have been the fashion but it was not a wise move, especially as the design of men’s hosiery had not had a chance to catch up.
Detachable and therefore easily lost, sleeves and undersleeves – which resembled gauntlets – were taken care of and could make or break any outfit.
Sleeves were given as gifts, embroidered, quilted or slashed and were a thing apart, a totally independent item.
Sumptuary laws were also there to protect fortunes, to stop the ‘ruin of a multitude of serviceable young men and gentlemen of good families’ by preventing them from squandering money on fashionable clothing
For centuries after the old adage of ‘One night with Venus, six months with Mercury’ was a warning to those about to embark upon numerous sexual encounters.
There were more than a dozen basic fan-related gestures that a man would need to know, for example: Touching right cheek – yes Touching left cheek – no Twirling in right hand – I love another Fanning slowly – I am married Fanning quickly – I am engaged Open and shut – you are cruel Open wide – wait for me Presented shut – do you love me? With handle to lip – Kiss me In right hand in front of face – Follow me Drawing across the cheek – I love you Placing on left ear – I wish to get rid of you
as a man living and working for the most part during the Victorian period he had at an early age formed the opinion that in the matter of dress women were far more ‘upholstered’ than ‘dressed’:
Looking Young If you wish to keep always young, you must be amiable. A serene face, a sweet expression, a kind and gentle look: these are like a day in spring, and the smile on the lips is a ray of sunshine. Discontented people, always look ten years older than they are.

