In both places, though, the ghosts of Haiti’s past lurk. They’re present in the fort itself, a crumbling landmark from the days when the French got rich off this land through a system of brutal slavery and rapacious plantation farming. They’re present in the central square of Gonaïves, where Haitian slaves first declared their independence and where subsequent generations have marched against native-born dictators and foreign interveners alike. They’re present in the shiny new aid trucks, T-shirts, and billboards, the latest manifestation of a centuries-long American effort to refashion this
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