Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

by Eric Horst

Now, more than twenty-five years after the first ascent of Action Directe, the benchmark of maximum difficulty has been stretched to 5.15c and V16—but the advancement has been relatively slow, especially in bouldering, which most directly tracks the absolute maximum climbing level. After Güllich’s first ascent of Action Directe, it took a full decade until the first consensus 5.15a/9b, Realization, was established by Chris Sharma in 2001. Seven more years passed before Sharma completed his long-term project, Jumbo Love, widely considered the world’s first 5.15b/9b+. However, only a comparatively short four years was needed for Adam Ondra to establish 5.15c/9c with his mega roof route, Change, at Flatanger, Norway.

bouldering (to learn problem solving and develop power); climbing on a home wall or at a climbing gym (to improve technique and strength); on-sighting, hangdogging, or for that matter any climbing (to enhance your mental and physical skill sets); and traveling to experience many different types of climbing (to gain experience and a broad range of technical skills).

But if you really want to climb harder, you must train smarter.

You cannot progress beyond your current state with the same thoughts and actions that brought you here.

Finally, write down what one or two (or more) things you will give up in order to reach your short-, medium-, and long-term goals.

First, block in the big events such as climbing trips, competitions, work and family obligations, and the like. Next, write in your proposed work-out and climbing schedule, with special attention to maintaining enough rest days in the game plan.