The town of Katherine, between Arnhem Land and the Kimberley, is something of a must, in one sense or another. I spent a day climbing through the gorges, and I remember seeing high up on cliffs paintings representing, among other things, an upside-down person and a big snake that appeared to be emerging from a hole in the rock, an eternal and universal myth. The snake, like the bird and the lizard, is a spiritually powerful animal because it moves between two worlds, the one in which we live and subterranean spirit worlds.