The Willamette Valley is filthy with great dirt, from some of the deepest deposits of fertile alluvial soil on the planet to fine and nutrient rich loess to volcanic Jory that imbues the region’s Pinot Noir with its signature spiciness. Soil, I should point out, is key to the process known as growing stuff, which in turn is one of the main components of winemaking. Indeed, in the absence of grown stuff—in this case, grapes—wine tends to lack structure and complexity.

