There are clearly understood rules of staying safe in a country still at war: which areas to avoid; how not to get abducted; where it is safe to go out at night; and there are intricate rules about taking taxis. When you call the cab company, the operator gives you a secret code. The driver gets another secret code. You exchange those codes when you meet the driver, and only if they match the driver trusts you, and you trust the driver: then the journey may begin.

