Right there on the asphalt, on top of some bricks, an old man sat playing the accordion. He was wearing his medals, singing war songs, with a hat full of change at his feet. Our favorite songs: “The fire burns bright in the little stove, / Sap drips down the logs, like tears…” I wanted to go up to him…but he was already surrounded by foreigners…They started snapping pictures of each other in front of him. Shouting things at him in Italian, French, and German. Clapping him on the shoulder: “Davai! Davai!” They were in high spirits, clearly having a lot of fun. Why wouldn’t they be? People used
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