More on this book
Kindle Notes & Highlights
apart from during and immediately after the monsoon, when the river level is too high. India's current prime minister, Narendra
the fanatical Mughal emperor Aurangzeb was the most destructive, looting and destroying almost all of the temples. The old city of Varanasi may look antique, but few buildings are more than a couple of hundred years old.
Bags, cameras, mobile phones, pens or any other electronic device must be deposited in lockers (₹20)
Declaring an interest or curiosity in Hindu beliefs may help you gain access (and it helps if you have an offering in hand, which can be purchased inside or outside the temple).
a roomy museum with a wonderful collection of miniature paintings, as well as 12th-century palm-leaf manuscripts, sculptures and local history displays.
The current maharaja, Anant Narayan Singh – still known in these parts as the Maharaja of Benares despite such royal titles being officially abolished in 1971 – continues his family tradition of attending the annual month-long Ram Lila drama festival (Varanasi; hSep/Oct) held in the streets behind the fort.
The best time to visit the ghats is at dawn when the river is bathed in a mellow light as pilgrims come to perform puja to the rising sun,
and at sunset when the main ganga aarti (river worship ceremony) takes place at Dashashwamedh Ghat.
is particularly important as the River Assi meets the Ganges near here and pilgrims come to worship a Shiva lingam (phallic image of Shiva) beneath a peepul tree. Evenings are particularly lively, as the ghat’s vast concreted area fills up with hawkers and entertainers. It’s a popular starting point for boat trips and there are some excellent hotels here.
but in the month of Kartika (October/November) a festival devoted to Krishna is celebrated here.
Nepali royalty sit back from Shivalaya Ghat, built
Varanasi’s liveliest and most colourful ghat is Dashashwamedh Ghat, easily reached at the end of the main road from Godaulia Crossing. The name indicates that Brahma sacrificed (medh) 10 (das) horses (aswa) here.
Every evening at 7pm an elaborate ganga aarti ceremony with puja, fire and dance is staged here.
Manikarnika Ghat, the main burning ghat, is the most auspicious place for a Hindu to be cremated.
every log is carefully weighed on giant scales so that the price of cremation can be calculated. Each
If you don’t want to make a donation, don’t follow them.
Above the steps here is a tank known as the Manikarnika Well. Parvati is said to have dropped her earring here and Shiva dug the tank to recover it,
Privileged VIPs are cremated at the Charanpaduka, which also has a temple dedicated to Ganesh.
Dattatreya takes its name from a Brahmin saint, whose footprint is preserved in a small temple nearby.
the water between them is especially holy.
The early-morning light is particularly inspiring,
An hour-long trip south from Dashashwamedh Ghat to Harishchandra Ghat and back is popular, but be prepared to see a burning corpse at Harishchandra.
Many guesthouses offer boat trips, although they’re more expensive than dealing with the boatmen directly.
Hotel Surya's spa is a nice choice for soothing Ayurvedic massages.
Varanasi is full of Ayurvedic imposters. Serious seekers should come here, the city's real deal Ayurvedic pharmacy. Consultations with a doctor are free; prescriptions from the 500 stocked medicines run from ₹20 to ₹2000. Additionally,
Do not go to any shop with a guide or autorickshaw driver.
When negotiating with boatsmen, confirm the price and currency before setting
Be wary of bhang lassis – these are made with hash (degraded cannabis) and can be very strong if that's not what you're looking for (robberies of intoxicated people have been reported).
7pm when representatives meet interested travellers. No cash donations.
performances are held every Saturday and Wednesday evening at 8pm (₹150).
Be very wary of the aggressive monkeys
Free wi-fi and 24-hour hot water in winter.
NO 1 LASSI IN ALL VARANASI Your long, thirsty search for the best lassi in India is over.
Stocks shirts, kurta pyjamas, saris and head scarves, all made from the famous homespun khadi fabric.
had the famous four-lion capital (now in the museum) perched on top of
Archaeological Museum MUSEUM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission ₹5; h9am-5pm) This fully modernised, 100-year-old sandstone museum houses wonderfully displayed ancient treasures such as the very well preserved 3rd-century BC lion capital from the Ashoka Pillar, which has been adopted as India’s national emblem, and a huge 2000-year-old stone umbrella, ornately carved with Buddhist symbols.
Flights to sensitive destinations, such as Srinagar and Ladakh, have extra security restrictions. You may also have to allow for a spot-check of your cabin baggage on the tarmac before you board.
Keeping peak-hour congestion in mind, the recommended check-in time for domestic flights is two hours before departure – the deadline is 45 minutes. The usual baggage allowance is 20kg (10kg for smaller aircraft) in economy class.
