ruined walls of the town hall. The potent symbolism of this ‘Kölsche Boor’ moved him deeply and two weeks later he wrote to his son again, quoting the words of the nationalist song: ‘We are keeping watch on the Rhine’. No Nazi, but a Catholic conservative and First World War veteran, Dünnwald was moved by civic patriotism, writing of the ‘artworks and countless treasures’ which the ‘filthy Tommy’ had ‘violated and destroyed’ in his ‘cowardly madness of destruction’. Despite much damage, the twin towers of the cathedral still stood, drawing the refugees back to their ‘shadow through
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