He actually expects his own surfing to improve. And it does, perceptibly, each year. I’ve never seen that before in anybody beyond their teens. Selya was in his midthirties when we met, and already an excellent surfer, with a style that manages to be both muscular and delicate, but when I compliment him on a wave well ridden he says things like, “Thanks. It was sweet. But I need more verticality.”
