Alexandra

90%
Flag icon
Chicks had to realize, he said, that when they married a surfer, they married surfing. They had to either adapt or split. “It’s like if you or I hooked up with a fanatical shopper,” he said. “I mean a total fanatic. You’d have to accept that your entire life would be traveling around to malls. Or, really, more like waiting for malls to open.”
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Rate this book
Clear rating
Open Preview