While in Saldang, Jang-bu talked to the two wool traders who later passed through Shey, and it turns out that these men whom we treated so inhospitably were carrying Jang-bu’s messages to Tukten and Gyaltsen. There are no police at Saldang, Jang-bu says: there are “many temples”, and a lama from Shey is there, just as reported. But the true Lama of Shey—and we realize now that Namu was protecting him—the tulku, or incarnate lama, whom I was so anxious to find, is none other than the crippled monk who was curing the goat skin in yak butter and brains, up at Tsakang.

