In the well-appointed visitor center across the road from the churchyard where the stones stand, they were selling the usual Viking tat—bottles of mead, paper napkins decorated with runes, CDs of Templar music—while an exhibition charted the various, largely fruitless archaeological excavations that had taken place there. The Danes have been searching for royal remains among the Jelling stones for centuries, but only ever seem to find Obélix-style menhirs.
