and failed to notice the terra wasn’t firma). Was it too much to ask for a seat that wasn’t surrounded by dangling wet socks, Indie band posters or discarded soya-milk cartons? I clambered over several three-storey rucksacks, complete with sleeping-bags and rolled up foam mats piled high in the gangway, and settled for an empty airline seat next to a woman looking out of the window. I slung my overnight
