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Chef Umberto is infamous for adding unconventional ingredients to his tasting courses. An edible balloon filled with a harmless huff of laughing gas. A lemon with a little dusting of deep-fried Brazilian ants. A squirt of epinephrine injected into foie gras to induce a physical and existential panic attack for the resurrection course. Authenticity is everything. Occasionally, the police come to investigate these dalliances, yes; it’s their duty—but after a roasted rack of lamb and three majestic glasses of Brunello, everyone is forgiven.
Truth is a bird set free.

