Chef Umberto doesn’t feel old, but it does feel that everything is changing fast. Does he take issue with these changes? Certainly not. He wants to get it right, to remain relevant; it’s just that he can’t get his matured mind to retain these shifts in language and sacrilegious online food trends. He still has an insatiable fire inside him, but maybe he is ready for a change of pace. During the few hours he is in bed, he has taken to calling out their names and pronouns in his sleep.

