In the company of her grandmother is the only place Vittoria feels safe. Everywhere else—school, home—feels unsteady, as though the soil is sliding beneath her. Cooking with Nonna is when the whirling chaos of being an eleven-year-and-eleven-month-old stills. Warm waves unfurling from the hearth. A sizzling tale spat by pancetta and oil. Her nonna seasoning an afternoon. Squeezing love from lemons.

