After dark, when my eyes have semiretired for the night, all these other senses wake up. With the day’s barrage of sights and sounds toned down, it is possible to savor things that slip right past me in the light. Food tastes better by candlelight. Conversations last longer. The smell of the vineyard is in the wine. This is the basic idea behind the Blindekuh restaurant in Zurich, opened by four blind entrepreneurs in the late 1990s, where diners still make reservations months ahead to eat in the dark. A
