Halfway through our four-dollar plates of noodles I asked, spontaneously, if she wanted to make some extra cash as a trendsetter—like many journalists she’d been hustling to amass a following online; I’d been enjoying how well the snitty comments she used to make in the margins of my stories translated into the language of social media—then remembered with a wave of horror that she was well into her thirties now, far too old for the panel.
