Food, for some unexplainable reason, is simple and delicious in the small hotels that dot the length of the Ganga. Hardly any culinary intricacy is involved in the preparation of puri-alu or alu-matar, yet you want to go back to them again and again, as if you’ve never had them before. The craving they induce is far stronger than the urge to savour a meat dish that has been painstakingly cooked for hours.