hundreds were pouring in and out of a cluster of temples across the Jahangir Mahal. It must have been an auspicious day, or else the locals wouldn’t have turned up in such great numbers, attired in their colourful best. The centre of action, I learnt, was the locally renowned Ramraj temple, where Lord Rama is worshipped more as a king than a god, so much so that he is honoured with a gun salute on Ram Navami. I wondered how I could have missed such a huge crowd in such a small place. Maybe