We stopped halfway up the hill and beheld a Greek strawberry tree, its great brownish-red branches spraying out like a hydra’s head. It was magnificent, and for a moment we just stared at this beautiful thing. Then Sahar directed our attention to the glyphs carved in its trunk: the calling card of a local Israeli militia. Sahar explained that these militiamen come as the feeling strikes them, vandalizing the land they believe to be their homeland, given to them by God.
