Traffic was a nightmare, parking was impossible, but the suppliers were wonderful. Alleva Dairy, the oldest cheese shop in America, where they made fresh and smoked mozzarella in the basement; Voilà Bakeries, where the buttery scent of croissants was better than any perfume; Bazzini for nuts; Raffetto’s for fresh pasta: New York was a giant smorgasbord of the best foods.

