Midway through the meal, Kevin polished off a slider, pointed a finger at me, and said, “You know what, Gallagher? After everything I’ve given up, food has taken on a whole new meaning.” Then he picked up the last croquette—no, it was an arancini—and said, “See this? From now on, this is sex, alcohol, and gambling, all rolled up into a little ball. I’ve got nothing left but this and Jesus.”