The Judgment of Paris led to the replacement of chenin blanc, grey riesling, and other light-wine grapes with cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay plantings as changes in winemaking style and practice moved toward Big. By 1980, cheap Chablis was “Out” throughout the nation and the noble fighting varietal Chardonnay was “In,” with Delta Force–style wine marketer Bruno Benziger flogging Glen Ellen Proprietor’s Reserve Chardonnay at two for $7 at Safeway. If the best is that cheap, why not buy the best?
