A second difficulty, even more slippery, is the apparent reductive properties of minerality (see chapter 8). Here is enology’s most unfortunate and yet most promising intellectual mud-wrestling arena. On the one hand, minerality is an obvious trait acknowledged by connoisseurs and the preponderance of winemakers. On the other hand, we have no idea what it is, and it retains the academic status of Bigfoot and flying saucers.
