Sure, you can simply crush the grapes, stand back, and hope for the best. That’s what Georgians do and have done for millennia with their qvevris, taking care—and I mean exquisite care—that their whites receive six months on the skins, seeds, and stems. Fair enough. Enjoy. Myself, I like these wines and find their emerging notoriety both hilarious and encouraging. But unless indoctrinated and seduced in advance, critics despise these wines. They are amber in the glass, and their tannin is off the charts. Traditional Georgian qvevri wines, though fascinating and groovy for geeks, are just
...more
