What I personally most despise in fresh whites is the strong butter note that malolactic bacteria impart, a hallmark of the enormously popular Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay. This same element cannot be reliably prevented in uncontrolled fermentations. If I were required to produce New Zealand–style Sauvignon Blanc, with its delicate purity of grape aromas, according to Natural Wine principles, I would start smashing windows.
