Technically you have to use Agave tequilana Weber var. Azul—that’s blue agave—and you have to make it in the Tequila region of Mexico. “Tequila,” it turns out, is a controlled appellation, like “Cognac” or “Bourbon.” The regulations say you have to follow certain recipe specifications and be in the right place. And if you try to make the same thing somewhere else? You’re making a different drink. Use Agave potatorum and you’re making mescal. Mix in some fruit and a roasted chicken, and you’re distilling pechuga, which fortunately does not taste like chicken.)
