The cold comfort of the bench chills me through my leggings as my attention rests on the columns and statues outside the cour d’appel. Madame du Barry, the maîtresse-en-titre of Louis XV, stayed imprisoned within these walls once. Red Skelton, Lucille Ball, and Gene Kelly all starred in a satire that revolved around her. It was one of Nana’s favorites—and a big reason why I adore this spot. I sense her presence strongest here. She’s why I’m in Paris.

