Suddenly, a barrage of rocks showers the train. One stone strikes the cabin wall near my head and bounces into the passage. More follow. I duck beneath the window and cover my head with my hands. Scarface finds me crouching on the floor and laughs. “The cow herders are pissed. Last week we hit one of their cattle that got onto the track. The herder wasn’t around so we hacked off enough beef to last us all the way up to Hanoi.”