Here everything seems primaeval—the formations of the rocks, the heaving and tossing of the full sea, the people with their fishing boats (called cobles in the local speech) which I imagine are not much changed from the primitive if versatile little craft of the early Viking invaders. Here on the shore of the German Ocean I feel the presence of those Northern Lands across its cold grey-green wastes—very different from the close civilised fields of France across the Channel—Even the air is somehow both ancient and fresh—fresh with salt and heather and a kind of absolute biting cleanness,
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