Kindle Notes & Highlights
Surfing happens best when it’s in the present; the past is behind and the future not yet. The only thing of interest is what’s here and now.
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People who can’t let go of the past, try to build fences around the way things are. They hope to keep everything the same and refuse to accept change until it is forced upon them.
Eleanor Roosevelt’s quote, “Health is more than the mere absence of disease,”
Health, Dorian learned, is the presence of a superior state of well-being, a vigor and vitality that must be worked for and earned each and every day.
To achieve this required maintaining a lifestyle based on a correct diet, sufficient exercise, proper rest, recreation and the right attitudes of mind.
A Zen-like mind that is empty of thoughts allows a stronger connection with the wave.
Getting caught inside is such an everyday occurrence in surfing that it becomes a metaphor for dealing with adversity of any kind.
The inner self is a part of each of us, and holds answers to complete happiness and a life free from pain and suffering.
This inner place of harmonious bliss is layered over with ego, individual belief systems and mundane concerns. We live in the past where nostalgia makes us sad, or in the future where our worries cause us anxiety. We fail to grasp that this moment we are in is all there ever was or ever will be. Life is, was, and ever will be, simply now.
Moments of surf realization are here to remind us of our true potential. If that is why we surf, that’s good because surfing ...
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This is all the more reason to keep surfing. Life is good. Surfing reminds ...
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It made me think that maybe sometimes we have to go back to the beginning to find the answers to the questions we have at the end. The answer may be so simple that it is easily overlooked. If one believes that the truth lies within, faith dictates that it will reveal itself when it is most needed. It’s there, so keep paddling where it leads.
Such is the life we can know. Living in the past and in the future – in recollection and in anticipation – creates a less clear picture of the present. By being in the here and now we understand that the past and future only exist in the present.
Life is quite a journey, we find something we like and immediately build a fence around it to keep it the same. Then something else comes along and we are over that fence in a flash with out hardly a look back, chasing off after some other pipe dream.
Anytime I go surfing can be a religious experience if I let it. It is an up close encounter with one of our world’s greatest natural wonders. Out here on the edge of the known world, far from the distractions of civilization, I can more easily find this space. But in reality any of us can find it anywhere, because we carry it inside us everywhere we go. During the course of our ordinary day, information from the senses bombards one’s mind. This pulls the mind outward. It is only when we still the mind that we are able to turn it inward where joy and wisdom lies. In this inner space we find how
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Surf is where you find it, but it’s always there, if not in the ocean or the mountain on a particular day then always in the mind and spirit. Ride the glide and let the spirit soar.
Life is like riding a wave. There is no way to know what the ride is going to be like from the vantage point of the takeoff, but inevitably there is always more ahead.
Sometimes the ride is fun and wonderful. Other times it’s scary and dangerous. Anticipation gives rise to expectations, but more often than not there will be surprises along the way.
weren’t we all the best that we could be in everything we did or tried to do?
