The Director read the letter carefully, wrote something on it and asked Shaikh Abdullah to take it to a particular window outside the building. The window was actually a small opening in a very large wall. It was about eighty by fifty centimetres, protected with five iron bars some ten centimetres apart. Through them about a dozen individuals were simultaneously trying to pass files and talk to the man inside. My heart sank at the spectacle: forget the visa, I thought; we won’t even get near the window. Shaikh Abdullah sensed my thought and gently tapped me on the shoulder. ‘I know my job,’ he
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