You’ll find venison and duck, for example, in the finest of restaurants. But there were other creatures that sometimes crossed our plates—like squirrels and raccoons and crawfish—that more urban folks in the same region looked down their noses at as “redneck food.” This is to say that the Western eyes with which many Americans view food are middle- to upper-class and educated, well removed from the realities of killing and processing the food they eat.

