By 1880, bergamot and lemon had started to lose their appeal. They seemed old-fashioned and crude compared to the heavier, more complex scents of the fashionable world. These were full of musk and ambergris, patchouli and spice oils, all of which were expensive. By the 1890s, high-fashion perfumes were never single scents, and were made not from one or two ingredients but from eight or twelve different extracts. Sold in tiny amounts in long, slim, beautifully decorative glass vials, they were a total expression of wealth.
