Risotto lets you know what’s happening at every turn. Risotto-making is the exact opposite of baking, where it all happens in the oven without you. Risotto shouts out each step, invites you to notice each change. It’s physical and active and clear. I like that about risotto. It’s also endlessly versatile. Shrimp and peas? Asparagus and lemon zest? Sundried tomatoes?—so many options.

