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Kindle Notes & Highlights
by
Mark Bittman
Read between
July 23 - July 23, 2019
NUTS AND SEEDS Nuts and seeds are excellent sources of protein, unsaturated fat, vitamins, fiber, and other nutrients. Their crunch makes them ideal for snacking and—as you know—ground to a butter, they’re a favorite. (Apple with almond butter—nothing better.) But their relatively high calorie density throws them into the Flexible Foods category.
• Almonds • Peanuts (technically a legume) • Cashews • Hazelnuts (filberts) • Pecans • Pistachios • Macadamia nuts • Walnuts • Pumpkin seeds • Sesame seeds • Poppy seeds • Flax and chia seeds
SWEET CONDIMENTS AND SWEETENERS This is an odd list, with many seemingly incongruous items; what they have in common is sugar. (If you do buy them, try to find versions that don’t contain high fructose corn syrup.) Many packaged condiments are surprisingly high in sugar; even salad dressings can be packed with added sugar and chemicals, which is why I urge you to make your own. Many of these condiments break the five-ingredient rule, but you don’t use much, and they add flavors that—because of their familiarity—can help you make the transition from the SAD.
• Oat milk • Rice milk • Nut milks (almond and hazelnut are most common) • Soy milk • Barbecue sauce • Ketchup • A-1 Sauce • Relishes and chow-chows • Sweet pickles • Maple syrup (grade B packs the most punch and is cheaper than grade A) • Honey (not technically vegan) • Sugar (turbinado is the least processed)
A good part of the VB6 philosophy is that you will eat much better if you cook. Period. So, many of these recipes are designed to store and reheat well in the oven, toaster oven, or microwave; you can refrigerate leftovers for up to a few days, or freeze them for a few months.
Store grains, when you can, in the freezer or fridge; they’ll keep much longer that way.)
CANNED TOMATOES Convenient, inexpensive, and better than out-of-season “fresh.” Whole plum (or Roma) tomatoes are sweetest and best-tasting, (crush them with your hands or work a knife through the can), but canned diced tomatoes are undeniably convenient. Steer clear of crushed or pureed tomatoes, which are watery, and avoid tomatoes with sugar added. Tomato paste is good, too: Choose tubes (like toothpaste) over cans, so you can use a bit at a time.
OTHER PRESERVED FOODS Sauerkraut. Pickles (without sugar). Roasted red peppers. Capers. Olives. These are all full-flavored ingredients with lots of uses, and they keep for months. Whenever possible choose glass containers over plastic and cans.
DRIED FRUIT Raisins, cranberries, apricots, pineapple, dates, figs, and so on are delicious and convenient, but quite high in sugar; stick to fresh fruit whenever possible. Otherwise, keep portions small, and reserve these for special occasions or as flavorful additions to salads, bean dishes, pilafs, and desserts. SWEETENERS Whenever possible choose less refined alternatives to sugar—turbinado or “raw” sugar, maple syrup, agave nectar, or honey (which technically isn’t vegan).
SWEETENED CONDIMENTS Ketchups, relishes, and barbecue sauce—as well as fruit syrups; caramel, or sweet glazes or sauces—all contain a fair amount of sugar or other sweeteners. This doesn’t mean you can’t eat them (though some contain fewer undesired ingredients than others and in most cases you’re better off making your own), but consider doing so a treat.
HOMEMADE COLD CEREAL MAKES: 8 SERVINGS TIME: 15 MINUTES So superior to store-bought you may never go back. Uncooked rolled oats—sweet, crunchy, and chewy—provide the base, and the rest of the mixture is totally customizable. Serve with fruit and you’re set until lunchtime. 3½ cups rolled oats ½ cup mixed chopped nuts and seeds (like almonds, walnuts, pecans, cashews, sunflower seeds, or flax seeds) ½ cup raisins or other chopped dried fruit ¼ cup unsweetened grated coconut ½ teaspoon cinnamon or cardamom, or to taste Pinch salt 4 cups soy or oat milk, or other nondairy milk, for serving 1
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FRUITY NUT BUTTER MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: 5 MINUTES To make nut butter at home, all you do is put a bunch of nuts in the food processor with a few drops of water and let the machine work its magic; in a few minutes, you’re done. Using fruit instead of water makes the nuts even better, reducing the spread’s calorie density and adding bright freshness, color, and flavor, giving you a kind of instant pb&j. You don’t have to eat this on bread; try it on plain cooked grains or apple slices, or scooped up with carrot, celery, or jícama sticks. 1 cup almonds or other nuts (see below) 2 cups chopped
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TOAST TALK Whole grains are near-ideal morning food, but when you can’t get it together to cook up a batch, whole-grain bread is a fast alternative. It will help you get out of the house well fed, especially if you’re weaning yourself from bagels and cream cheese. Look for true whole-grain bread, flatbread, or crackers. Whole wheat is always a better option than white, but remember that something can legally be sold as whole wheat as long as it contains some whole wheat flour. You’ve got to read the labels to find bread made from only whole grains. (100 percent rye is most common.) Slice per
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BROILED NUTTY APPLES MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: 20 TO 30 MINUTES Broiling is a fast and clever trick for turning common fruit into dessert, as well as an excellent way to prepare fruit that may be less than perfect. Just a few notes: The fat brings out the flavor of the seasonings and helps them stick to the apples; coconut oil is particularly rich if you have it handy. And although the fruit will become sweeter as you cook it, you can always add a sweetener to satisfy your cravings. Spices, nuts, and herbs are surprisingly delicious companions here—even ones you associate with savory foods—so be
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TROPICAL TOAST MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: ABOUT 45 MINUTES Bright orange juice and creamy coconut milk make a much more interesting custard for French toast than regular milk. A warm fruit topping made with fresh pineapple and shredded coconut adds sweetness and eliminates the need for loads of maple syrup and powdered sugar. If you’ve got a juicer, try substituting fresh pressed pineapple juice for the orange juice here. And feel free to substitute any other fruit—berries, bananas, or stone fruit—for the pineapple. ½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice ½ cup coconut milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
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SCRAMBLED TOFU WITH SPINACH MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: 20 MINUTES In this hearty morning scramble, tofu takes the place of eggs. Since tofu is undeniably bland, it’s important to ramp up the seasonings a bit. I like to use spinach, but any leafy greens will work. Other options: sliced mushrooms, leeks, cabbage, and asparagus; chopped broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and zucchini; or grated winter squash and root vegetables. This scramble makes an ideal lunch, too. 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 tablespoon chopped garlic, or more to taste 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to
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LEFTOVERS FOR LUNCH No matter where you work, lunch is the ideal opportunity to make a delicious meal out of food tucked away in the fridge. And once you start cooking and eating VB6, you’ll always have plenty of beans, grains, and vegetables—raw and cooked—ready, wherever you need to go. One key is to start thinking of food preparation in terms of components—there’s a reason the last recipe chapter is called “Building Blocks”—and not just finished dishes. When you do, you’ll top a bowl of greens with last night’s cold roasted vegetables and cooked black beans from the weekend, and call it
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GREEN SALAD WITH MACERATED FRUIT AND NUTS MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: 30 MINUTES I love fresh fruit in salads, especially the way the juices ooze flavor into the dressing. And this recipe changes with every season: Use berries and stone fruits in summer, apples and pears in fall, citrus and pineapple in winter, mangos and papaya in spring. Try dried fruit in the winter, too, but use no more than 1 cup—it’s far more calorie dense than its fresh counterparts. 2 tablespoons any wine or balsamic vinegar 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 shallot or ½ red onion, minced 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste Black
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LENTIL SALAD MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: 30 MINUTES WITH COOKED OR CANNED BEANS Try this once and you’ll make it forever, probably never the same way twice. Lentils cook fast (see Big-Batch Lentils), but feel free to substitute any kind of cooked, frozen, or canned bean here. If you toss them in the dressing while they’re still warm, they’ll absorb the flavor of the dressing beautifully. Try any combination of chopped fresh vegetables, greens, or herbs; figure about 6 cups total. 1 tablespoon Dijon or other good-quality mustard, or to taste 2 tablespoons any wine or sherry vinegar 4 tablespoons
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EASIEST VEGETABLE SOUP MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: 45 TO 60 MINUTES Make this with just about any vegetable you want—really. I like a combination of longer-cooking firm vegetables and quicker-cooking soft ones, but suit yourself. For that matter, you don’t even need to use a combination of vegetables; if you like, just pick one or two (you’re aiming for about 6 cups of vegetables overall), bearing in mind that beans, corn, or peas will add texture and body, making the soup more satisfying. 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 tablespoon minced garlic ¼ cup tomato paste 1 teaspoon salt,
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VEGETABLE MISO SOUP WITH TOFU AND RICE MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: ABOUT 20 MINUTES Traditional miso soup is ethereal, but you can transform this delicious and easy broth into a meal by tossing in rice and vegetables, and by ratcheting up the tofu. Buy refrigerated miso paste, which is better than shelf-stable varieties; the lighter the color, the milder the flavor. And be sure not to boil the soup after you’ve added the miso; extreme heat kills miso’s beneficial enzymes and delicate flavor. For the variations, canned or boxed vegetable stock is one way to go, but stock you make yourself will be
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GREENS AND BEANS SOUP MAKES: 8 SERVINGS TIME: 1½ TO 2 HOURS, LARGELY UNATTENDED Greens and beans is among my favorite combinations, and you’ll never run out of options. Start with dried beans if possible (use any you like; see Big-Batch Beans); their cooking liquid is deeply flavorful and gives the soup a rich texture. (To use canned or pre-cooked beans, follow the tofu variation below, using 8 cups of beans.) I like hearty greens here, like kale or collards, cooked until tender, but not to the point of disintegrating; you could also use broccoli raab, escarole, spinach, or cabbage. Just make
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STEWED TOMATOES AND BEANS MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: 30 MINUTES Try this the next time you have a craving for pasta and sauce; the beans cook in a classic tomato sauce until they become soft and slightly creamy. It’s incredibly satisfying, and you can make it even more so by tossing it with whole wheat couscous or spooning it over brown rice. 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, chopped 1 red or green bell pepper, chopped 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, with their juice 4 cups cooked or canned beans, any kind, drained 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste Black pepper ¼ cup
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CHICKPEA RATATOUILLE MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: ABOUT 1½ HOURS, LARGELY UNATTENDED Classic ratatouille—a mixture of summery vegetables stewed with olive oil and herbs—is stellar and satisfying on its own. Add chickpeas (or cannellini, or lima beans) and you have a super-hearty main dish. Eggplant, zucchini, and peppers are the usual vegetables, but consider alternatives like roughly chopped hearty greens—escarole or kale, for example. Just be sure to keep the tomatoes for moisture. 1 pound eggplant (smaller ones are better), peeled if you like, and cut into large chunks ¾ pound zucchini, cut into
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CREAMED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: 30 TO 45 MINUTES Mashed white beans and a little water take the place of dairy here to thicken and enrich sautéed mushrooms. The flavor is more interesting than cream, the texture heartier, and the nutrition comparison isn’t even close. Serve as a side dish, or make this a meal by ladling over whole-grain toast or flatbread. It’s also good wrapped in whole wheat tortillas, over brown rice, tossed with whole wheat pasta, or used to sauce roasted wedges of eggplant, cabbage, or cauliflower. 2 tablespoons olive oil 1½ pounds fresh mushrooms,
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ONE-POT PASTA AND VEGETABLES MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: 30 TO 45 MINUTES Cooking pasta like risotto—the so-called absorption method—is efficient and delicious. Make sure you stir frequently, especially if you use long pasta, as it’s more likely to get stuck together. (Breaking it into pieces, long considered heresy, also helps.) Once the pasta has begun to soften, but before it’s fully tender, stir in any vegetables you like (see list below). I like to add parsley, too; other fresh herbs are also great. 4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed 2 celery stalks, trimmed and chopped 1 carrot,
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SMASHED AND LOADED SWEET POTATOES MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR, LARGELY UNATTENDED Here’s an updated version of the once-ubiquitous stuffed baked potato, made with nutritious, delicious, and colorful sweet potatoes. Veer the toppings toward the sweet or the savory, as you like. (See the list opposite for some ideas.) You can cook the potatoes by either method well in advance, if you like. You can even refrigerate the cooked potatoes for a day or two. Then reheat them in a microwave for a couple of minutes before moving to Step 2. 4 large sweet potatoes, peeled 2 tablespoons olive oil 1
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EGGPLANT UN-PARMESAN MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR This take on eggplant Parmesan proves that (a) you don’t need a lot of oil to cook eggplant, and (b) you don’t need gobs of cheese to make it delicious. Try using zucchini or portobello mushrooms as variations, or serve the vegetables and tomato sauce over polenta for a more substantial meal. If you can’t find whole wheat breadcrumbs (panko-style are best), make your own by pulsing lightly toasted whole-grain bread in the food processor or blender. 2½ pounds eggplant 5 tablespoons olive oil 1¼ teaspoons salt, plus more to taste Black
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TIPS FOR KEEPING SNACKS HANDY I’ve touched on good snacking habits elsewhere, but here’s a full rundown: Keep a few pieces of washed fruit in a bowl on the counter. If it’s there, you’ll eat it when you’re home and take it with you on your way out the door. And be sure to have plenty of backup in the fridge, and some frozen fruit tucked away, too. Prep long-lasting vegetables. You’ll use them for spontaneous meals, too. Trim and peel carrots, cut up celery sticks and cucumbers, trim radishes, and pluck florets off cauliflower or broccoli. Keep carrots, radishes, and celery in a bowl of water
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CARROT CANDY MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: ABOUT 3 HOURS, LARGELY UNATTENDED Here, you concentrate the sweetness of carrots by slow-roasting them until they’re essentially dehydrated. The resulting “candy” is slightly chewy and slightly crisp—the perfect healthy snack to eat alone, or as a vehicle for dips. You can use this technique on virtually any vegetable, alone or in combination. Thinly sliced fennel bulbs, beets, parsnips, celery root, and turnips all work great, as will cauliflower or broccoli florets. All will take somewhere between 2½ and 3 hours, depending on the cut and how dry the
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ROASTED VEGETABLE SPREAD MAKES: 8 SERVINGS TIME: 30 TO 90 MINUTES, LARGELY UNATTENDED Run into a snack like this while you’re rummaging in the fridge and you’ll look no further; it’s fantastic, and works for virtually any vegetable. Eat as is, on whole-grain crackers or toasted bread, or spread on sandwiches. You can also serve this alongside simply cooked meat or chicken for your after-6 meal. Cooking time will vary from one vegetable to the next: High-moisture items, like tomatoes or zucchini, should be roasted until the pan is almost completely dry. Root vegetables and tubers, like sweet
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TOFU JERKY MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR, LARGELY UNATTENDED Beef jerky is everywhere. Tofu jerky—oh, not so much. (You’ve probably never even heard of such a crazy thing.) It’s great stuff, characteristically crusty and chewy. Most commercially made jerky, whether it starts with beef or soy-based meat substitutes, is loaded with additives and preservatives; here, you control all the ingredients. 1 pound firm tofu 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 teaspoon soy sauce ¼ teaspoon liquid smoke 2 teaspoons brown sugar ½ teaspoon smoked paprika (pimentón) ¼ teaspoon ground Chinese five-spice 1 Heat
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VEGAN “CREAMSICLES” MAKES: 4 6-OUNCE FROZEN POPS TIME: 5 MINUTES, PLUS ABOUT 4 HOURS TO FREEZE An amazing spin on the popular orange and vanilla Creamsicles, but these are super easy and free of corn syrup and additives. The secret ingredient is silken tofu, which is available in most supermarkets, fresh or in sealed boxes. It’s the ideal replacement for yogurt, so I use it in smoothies and anytime I want to add a tangy creaminess. ⅔ cup soft silken tofu 1⅓ cups fresh orange juice 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 Put all the ingredients in a blender and puree until the mixture
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STEEL-CUT OATS, RISOTTO-STYLE MAKES: 4 SERVINGS TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR Classic risotto is made with rice, of course, but steel-cut oats (and other grains, too) also develop a luxurious creaminess while retaining terrific chew when cooked with this technique. As with classic risotto, you can flavor this with almost anything you like. See the lists starting here for some of my favorite combinations or develop your own. Note that if you leave out the Parmesan, this becomes a perfect VB6 lunch dish. ½ cup dried porcini mushrooms 1½ cups very hot water 4 to 5 cups vegetable stock or water 3 tablespoons
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But even if you’re inexperienced or reluctant, you’ll have long-term success by cultivating these three habits: 1. Prepare and cook food in bulk. Grouping kitchen tasks makes use of every minute you spend in the kitchen and gives you lots of prepared food that’s ready to eat, or to quickly assemble into delicious meals. The key is always to cook with the next meal, and the ones after that, in mind. Whenever you’re in the kitchen, waiting for something to cook, ask yourself, “What else could I be doing?” The answer is almost always “plenty”: Make a batch of vinaigrette: boil vegetables for
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BIG-BATCH BEANS MAKES: ABOUT 8 ¾-CUP SERVINGS TIME: 30 MINUTES TO 2 HOURS, DEPENDING ON THE BEAN AND SOAKING OPTION Keeping beans handy is one of the best things you can do for your diet, and cooking them yourself is no more difficult than boiling water. (Try it once, and you’ll see that they’re vastly superior to canned; but also see the sidebar on How to Buy and Prepare Beans.) Not only are they full of fiber, protein, and other nutrients, no two kinds are quite the same, making them endlessly versatile. Use them in salads or stir-fries, puree them into dips or sandwich spreads, use them
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FAST AND FLAVORFUL VEGETABLE STOCK MAKES: MORE THAN 2 QUARTS TIME: ABOUT 45 MINUTES Nowhere is the gap between homemade and store-bought greater than with vegetable stock. The kind you buy in the store tastes so much like water that if I don’t have time to make my own—well, I just use water. (Which is fine, in many cases.) Fortunately, this recipe is both quick and easy, since the mushrooms, tomato paste, and soy sauce (all ingredients that have lots of umami, or “savoryness”) flavor simmering water faster than meat bones do. But even if you’ll just simmer some carrots, celery, and onions in
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D.I.Y. FLATBREAD MAKES: 8 SERVINGS TIME: AT LEAST 1 HOUR Made as a flatbread, this do-it-yourself whole wheat creation falls somewhere on the spectrum between a cracker and a focaccia, with a satisfyingly crunchy crust and some of the airiness that you get from a yeasted loaf bread. But there are many ways to use the dough; see the variations, all of which have a wonderful nutty flavor. There are different techniques for flavoring: You can add ingredients to the dough with everything else in the food processor; try chopped fresh or crumbled dried herbs, ground spices, minced garlic, ginger,
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