Stack Lodge remains much as it was when Chanel stayed here in the Twenties – the upstairs bedrooms snug beneath the eaves; cottage rooms, unlike the ducal splendour of Lochmore – and there is still no other building in sight, its mountain views and isolation maintained by the narrow stone bridge that is the sole way across the river to the lodge. The mansion at Lochmore is equally quiet – empty now, its echoing rooms inhabited only by the sightless heads of stags, their glass eyes gone or clouded, and a cabinet of stuffed birds, kestrel and curlew, jacksnipe and grouse – and its windows
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