he warned me against the myth that ape hunting is a problem because local people are hungry. The reality, he said, is that local people eat duikers or rats or squirrels or monkeys—if they eat meat at all—whereas the fancy stuff, the illicit delicacies, the chimpanzee body parts, the gobs of elephant flesh, the hippopotamus steaks, get siphoned away by upscale demand from the cities, where premium prices justify the risks of poaching and illegal transport.