Sommeliers have become adventurous and unpredictable in their wine selections, and bravo to that. Instead of spending time chasing down the latest 100-pointer or their small allocation of Beaucastel, Guigal, or Raveneau, for example, they are making their own discoveries, introducing them to their diners, and if it is a wine from a little-known region or grape variety, what the hell, so be it—that seems to be their attitude these days.

