Value what nature gives, quirks and all. If ever you find a real Beaujolais, glory in its virtues, its immediacy, its spirit, instead of swirling and sniffing and seeking size and grandeur. Americans, comparative newcomers to fine wine, seem to look for a Great Experience every time they uncork a bottle. Beaujolais should not be a civilized society lady; it is the one-night stand of wines.
