I have, perhaps, been especially grateful for the discovery of certain wines from the less hallowed viticultural regions—inexpensive, clean, refreshing, and undemanding, ideal daily aperitif and summer luncheon wines; typical are Jean Berail’s white, Roque Sestière, and Yves Laboucarie’s vin gris, Domaine de Fonsainte, both from the southwest Corbières appellation.
