Arms splayed wide, I planted my feet and stood about three feet from the edge. Western winds blew my hair into a frenzy. Further down the coast, small black shapes milled around among the rocks. “Am I hallucinating, or are those puffins?!” Callum watched me without an ounce of annoyance or judgment. “There’s a colony on the Aran Islands, a short ferry trip from here.” “Ahh! So cute.” We watched the seabirds dive into the water, filling their colorful beaks with writhing fish.