‘This is nikujaga the way your mother made it. Koshihikari rice from Hiroshima. Cooked so that it’s all soft and sticky. Apparently you liked it that way.’ ‘I did? But how did you . . .’ ‘Let’s talk about that when you’ve finished. On the side you have extra-pickled Hiroshimana cabbage. And the miso soup is with a sea bream broth and poached egg. All your favourites, I believe. Please, enjoy!’