The World in a Wineglass: The Insider's Guide to Artisanal, Sustainable, Extraordinary Wines to Drink Now

by Ray Isle

that Eduard Tscheppe of the Austrian winery Gut Oggau said at a tasting I went to not long ago: “Most people just think of wine as a drink. And that makes sense, because it’s mostly true. With a lot of wine there’s only a distant memory of the soil and the climate in the bottle. It’s really just an alcoholic beverage made by some company.” Elena Pantaleoni, the brilliant, idiosyncratic owner of Italy’s La Stoppa, phrases it a little more bluntly when she says, “There’s a lot of elevator music when it comes to wine.”