In the distance, about ten thousand feet above sea level, rose a belt of craggy peaks. At these heights, the impact of a changing climate was especially dire: increasing aridity was exacerbating an already limited water supply. By the side of a road near the hamlet of La Capellania, groups of women carted piles of laundry in wheelbarrows and in baskets balanced on their heads to small drainage ditches where they washed their families’ clothes with bars of soap, scrubbing them clean on flattened stones. They had set out with flashlights before dawn, wearing hats and jackets to withstand the
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